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| |
|
COMMON YARNS SETT CHART
|
|
YARN SIZE
|
yd/lb
|
tabby
|
twill |
|
Cotton
|
| 20/2
cotton |
8,400 |
24-30 |
32-36 |
| 10/2
cotton |
4,200 |
24-28 |
30 |
|
8/2 cotton |
3,000 |
16-20 |
24-30 |
| 8/4
cotton |
1,680 |
12-15 |
20 |
| 5/2
cotton |
2,100 |
15-18 |
20 |
| 4/2
cotton |
840 |
12-15 |
20 |
| 3/2
cotton |
1,260 |
10-12 |
15 |
|
Silk |
|
30/2 silk |
7,500 |
30-32 |
36-45 |
|
12/2 silk |
3,000 |
18-20 |
22-24 |
| Linen |
| 20/2
linen |
3,000 |
20-24 |
30 |
|
20/1 linen |
6,000 |
24-30 |
36-40 |
| 12/1
linen |
3,600 |
22-25 |
30-32 |
| 4/1/
linen |
1,400 |
12-15 |
15-18 |
|
Wool
|
|
YARN SIZE
|
yd/lb
|
tabby
|
twill |
| 20/2
worsted wool |
5,600 |
20-24 |
28 |
| 12/3
worsted wool |
2,160 |
15-18 |
20 |
| 6.5/1
wool |
3,200 |
18-20 |
22-25 |
| 12/2
wool |
3,000 |
18-20 |
22-25 |
| 7/2
wool |
1,640 |
12-15 |
15-18 |
| 6.5/2
wool |
1,600 |
10-12 |
15-18 |
| 1.3/1
wool |
600 |
8-12 |
12-15 |
| 2.2/2
wool |
550 |
8-10 |
10-12 |
|
MOHAIR
|
|
YARN SIZE
|
yd/lb
|
tabby
|
twill |
| Boucle or
Loop |
1000 |
6-8 |
6-8 |
| Brushed
Mohair |
800 |
4-8 |
4-8 |
|
Determine Sett using WPI, wraps per inch. epi, Ends per inch
Balanced plain weave, WPI / 2 = epi
Warp face plain weave, WPI X 2 = epi
Weft face plain weave: WPI / 3 = epi
Balanced 2/2 twill: WPI x 2/3 = epi |
|
Converting commercial Handknitting Yarns.
example for balanced
plain weave
|
| |
Yds/Lb Wool |
Yds/Lb Cotton |
Wraps per " |
WPI / 2 |
Sett |
| Lace weight |
2500+ |
2500+ |
35 + |
36/2 |
18 epi |
| Fingering weight |
1675-2100 |
1600-2000 |
19-22 |
20/2 |
10 epi |
| Sport weight |
1350-1650 |
1350-1550 |
15-18 |
16/2 |
8 epi |
| Double Knit DK |
1100-1300 |
1000-1300 |
12-14 |
12/2 |
6 epi |
| Worsted weight |
900-1100 |
650-850 |
9-11 |
10/2 |
5 epi |
| Bulky weight |
500-800 |
400-600 |
8 or less |
8/2 |
4 epi |
|
|
WARP SETT REED SUBSTITUTION CHART
(ENDS PER INCH)
|
| Order of Sley
in Reed |
Reed Size in Dents
per Inch |
| 5 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
15 |
18 |
20 |
| 0-0-1 |
2 |
2 |
3 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
| 0-1 |
2 1/2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 1/2 |
9 |
10 |
| 0-1-1 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
7 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
13 |
| 0-1-1-1 |
4 |
4 1/2 |
6 |
7 1/2 |
9 |
11 1/2 |
13 1/2 |
15 |
| 1 |
5 |
6 |
8 |
10 |
12 |
15 |
18 |
20 |
| 1-1-1-2 |
6 |
7 1/2 |
10 |
12 1/2 |
15 |
19 |
22 1/2 |
25 |
| 1-1-2 |
7 |
8 |
11 |
13 |
16 |
20 |
24 |
27 |
| 1-2 |
7 1/2 |
9 |
12 |
15 |
18 |
22 1/2 |
27 |
30 |
| 1-2-2 |
8 |
10 |
13 |
17 |
20 |
25 |
30 |
33 |
| 1-2-2-2 |
9 |
10 1/2 |
14 |
17 1/2 |
21 |
26 |
31 1/2 |
35 |
| 2 |
10 |
12 |
16 |
20 |
24 |
30 |
36 |
40 |
| 2-2-2-3 |
11 |
13 1/2 |
18 |
22 1/2 |
27 |
34 |
40 1/2 |
45 |
| 2-2-3 |
12 |
14 |
19 |
23 |
28 |
35 |
42 |
47 |
| 2-3 |
12 1/2 |
15 |
20 |
25 |
30 |
37 1/2 |
45 |
50 |
| 2-3-3 |
13 |
16 |
21 |
27 |
32 |
40 |
48 |
53 |
| 2-3-3-3 |
14 |
16 1/2 |
22 |
27 1/2 |
33 |
41 |
49 1/2 |
55 |
| 3 |
15 |
18 |
24 |
30 |
36 |
45 |
54 |
60 |
| 3-3-3-4 |
16 |
19 1/2 |
26 |
32 1/2 |
39 |
49 |
58 1/2 |
65 |
| 3-3-4 |
17 |
20 |
27 |
33 |
40 |
50 |
60 |
67 |
| 3-4 |
17 1/2 |
21 |
28 |
35 |
42 |
52 1/2 |
63 |
70 |
| 3-4-4 |
18 |
22 |
29 |
37 |
44 |
55 |
66 |
73 |
| 4 |
20 |
24 |
32 |
40 |
48 |
60 |
72 |
80 |
| 4-4-5 |
22 |
26 |
35 |
43 |
52 |
65 |
78 |
87 |
| 4-5-5 |
23 |
28 |
37 |
47 |
56 |
70 |
84 |
93 |
| 5 |
25 |
30 |
40 |
50 |
60 |
75 |
90 |
100 |
|
WARP AND WEFT
CALCULATIONS
|
| Warp Length
Finished length of total piece......................
Fringe/Hems.............................................
Shrinkage (depends on yarn & finishing)....
Take-up (10% for balanced weave)............
Extra length for samples..............................
Loom waste of 18" to 36"..........................
TOTAL LENGTH OF WARP
divided by 36 to change to yards
|
____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches
(Add All Lines) = _______inches
= ______ yards*
|
| Warp Width
Finished Width...........................................
Draw-in (10% - 15%)..................................
Shrinkage (of weft yarn - 10% - 15%)..........
TOTAL WIDTH...........................................
Multiply WIDTH x Ends per Inch (EPI)..........
TOTAL WIDTH X EPI = TOTAL # OF ENDS
|
____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches
+____________________inches
Add All Lines = _______inches
X ________EPI
=________ENDS
|
Materials Required for Warp
TOTAL # of ENDS.......................................
times TOTAL LENGTH of warp (see * above)
= YARDS OF WARP NEEDED.................... |
_________
x _________
= ________YARDS
|
| Calculate Weft Yarn
Width in reed
+ Take up..................................................
= Length of one weft shot (pick)..................
x Picks per Inch (PPI)...............................
x Weaving Length (in yards, see *above)....
= TOTAL YARDS needed for weft................ |
__________________inches
+__________________inches
=__________________inches
x __________________inches
= _________________YARDS |
|
Determining Yardage with Count System
Yardages for size 1
| Fiber |
Count |
| Cotton, spun silk |
840 |
| Linen, hemp, jute, ramie |
300 |
| Woolen Yarn |
256 |
| Worsted Yarn |
560 |
|
|
For Higher
Count:
Multiply the
count times the yardage of size 1.
Size 20 (20/1)
Cotton or Silk. Multiple 840 yds by 20 = 16,800 yds/lb
The Second
number indicates number of plies.
|
Count |
Yardage/per lb |
| 20/1 |
16800 |
| 20/2 |
8400 |
| 20/3 |
5600 |
|
|
