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COMMON YARNS SETT CHART - Calculate Sett

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YARN SIZE

yd/lb

tabby epi

twill epi

Cotton

20/2 cotton 8400 24-30 32-36
10/2 cotton 4200 24-28 30
8/2 cotton 3000 16-20 24-30
8/4 cotton 1680 12-15 20
5/2 cotton 2100 15-18 20
3/2 cotton 1200 10-14 15-18
4/2 cotton 840 12-15 20
Silk
4/2 silk 1000 7-8 8-9
5/2 silk 1250 8-9 13-14
12/2 silk 3000 18-20 22-24
20/2 silk 5000 24-26 28
30/2 silk 7500 30-32 36-45
50/2 silk 12500 50 55
Linen
40/2 linen 6000 24-30 36-40
20/1 linen 6000 24-30 36-40
12/1 linen 3600 22-25 30-32
20/2 linen 3000 20-24 30
16/2 linen 2400 15-18 24-28
4/1 linen 1400 12-15 15-18
16/4 linen 1200 10-14 18
16/6 linen 800 6-8 8-10

Wool

YARN SIZE

yd/lb

tabby

twill
20/2  worsted wool 5600 20-24 28
12/3  worsted wool 2160 15-18 20
6.5/1 wool 3200 18-20 22-25
12/2 wool 3000 18-20 22-25
7/2 wool 1640 12-15 15-18
6/2 wool 1600 10-12 12-15
1.3/1 wool 600 8-12 12-15
2.2/2 wool 550 8-10 10-12
Calculation is only an estimate.  The proof of the calculation is the cloth itself. 

To calculate the sett is to apply this formula:  S = T x R / (I+R)

S = Sett.  T is number times you wrap the warp yarn around a 1" ruler.  R is the number of ends in one repeat and I is the number of times that the weft intersects the plane of the cloth in one repeat.  Further explanation can be found in Mastering weave Structures by Sharon Alderman.

Determining Yardage with Count System Yardages for size 1
Fiber Count
Cotton, spun silk 840
Linen, hemp, jute, ramie 300
Woolen Yarn 256
Worsted Yarn 560

For Higher Count: Multiply the count times the yardage of size 1.  

Size 20 (20/1) Cotton or Silk.  

Multiple 840 yards by 20 = 16,800 yds/lb

The Second number indicates number of plies.

Count

Yardage/per lb

20/1 16800
20/2 8400
20/3 5600
Determine Sett using WPI, wraps per inch.  epi, Ends per inch

Balanced plain weave, WPI / 2 = epi

Warp face plain weave, WPI X 2 = epi

Weft face plain weave:  WPI / 3 = epi

Balanced 2/2 twill: WPI x 2/3 = epi

Nm Count
The Nm Count system is used for hemp yarns. Nm is the number of meters in 1 gram of yarn.  To calculate how many meters are in 1 kg. multiply the Nm count by 1000.

Converting commercial Handknitting Yarns.  example for balanced plain weave

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  Yds/Lb Wool Yds/Lb Cotton

Wraps per "

WPI / 2 Sett
Lace weight 2500+ 2500+ 35 + 36/2 18 epi
Fingering weight 1675-2100 1600-2000 19-22 20/2  10 epi
Sport weight 1350-1650 1350-1550 15-18 16/2  8 epi
Double Knit DK 1100-1300 1000-1300 12-14 12/2 6 epi
Worsted weight 900-1100 650-850 9-11 10/2 5 epi
Bulky weight 500-800 400-600  8 or less 8/2 4 epi

Linen

Wet spun flax fibers yield a yarn with a smooth finish. Dry spun flax fibers yield yarn has a softer finish.

Tow linen is spun from shorter, sometimes cut, flax fibers. Tow linen can be wet spun or dry spun and is usually plied for greater strength.

Line linen is wet spun from the longest flax fibers. Line linen yarn has a smooth surface and is very strong. It is usually sold as a singles yarn (not plied) and is relatively expensive.

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 Barkas Farms, Buckley, WA  98321   www.fiber2yarn.com     fiber2yarn@gmail.com
Copyright 1999 by Barkas Farms, d.b.a. Elizabeth's Fibers & Yarns.  All rights reserved.